Your first impressions of Malaysia's hi-tech, fast-growing west-coast capital, Kuala Lumpur (KL), are likely to be of a vibrant and colourful, if crowded, place. Traditionally, people have stayed just long enough to think about their next destination, but there are good reasons to stay a little longer: accommodation is plentiful and cheap, the food is excellent and its streets safe and friendly. Less than three hours' journey south lies the birthplace of Malay civilization, Melaka , a must on anybody's itinerary, while north up the coast is the first British settlement, the island of Penang , and its very appealing capital, Georgetown. For a taste of Old England and lots of walks, head for the hill station of the Cameron Highlands .

North of Penang, the premier tourist destination is Pulau Langkawi , a popular duty-free island. Routes down the Peninsula's east coast are more relaxing, with stops at the sleepy mainland kampung like Cherating and the stunning islands of Pulau Perhentian and Pulau Tioman. The state capitals of Kota Bharu , near the northeastern Thai border, and Kuala Terengganu , further south, are showcases for the best of Malay crafts and performing arts, while the unsullied tropical rainforests of Taman Negara National Park offer trails, animal hides, a high canopy walkway and waterfalls.

Across the sea from the Peninsula are the Bornean states of Sarawak and Sabah . For most travellers, their first taste of Sarawak is Kuching, the old colonial capital, and then the Iban longhouses of the Batang Ai and Batang Lupar river systems, or the Bidayuh communities closer to the Kalimantan border. The best time to visit is in late May-early June when the Iban and the Bidayuh celebrate their harvest festivals with ribald parties to which everyone is invited. Sibu, much further to the north, is another starting point for more visits to other Iban longhouses and the idyllic Pelagus Rapids region. In the north of the state, Gunung Mulu National Park is the principal destination, its extraordinary razor-sharp limestone needles